Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Polo Sweater

A new beginning and ending for the Dog Sweater Tutorial



Please read the pattern through completely before EMAILING me with questions. The instructions are in ALL of the content- pictures, notes, etc.

*  *  *  *  *  *  Important *  *  *  *  *  *
Creative Commons License
For personal use, gifting, and donation only. If you are involved in an animal charity, please contact me with details of the charity and event for permission to sell for fund-raising. Please do not sell or duplicate this pattern in whole or in part, claim any part of this pattern to be your own or ever use items made from this pattern for personal gain.



Materials:
Yarn of choice - MC (main color) CC (collar color) or multiple colors for stripes!
Hook suitable to yarn
3-? small buttons
Measuring tape
stitch markers
Tapestry needle
sewing needle
matching thread (or plied yarn)
matching felt

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Custom fit to your dog


Special Stitches:
Drop Stitch: A single crochet made by inserting the hook 1 row below you normally would. See this diagram and step-by-step explanation.

Abbreviations:
ch= chain
sl st= slip stitch
sc= single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc= double crochet
blo= back loop only
flo= front loop only
rs= Right Side (outside of sweater)
ws= Wrong Side (inside of sweater)
FO= finish off


IMPORTANT LINKS:
Measuring Your Dog For A Sweater
Basic Dog Sweater Tutorial
Drop Stitch Explained



ABOUT THIS PATTERN: This is a step-by-step tutorial. It is best to read the tutorial completely through before beginning. The instructions are found in the regular writing, in the notes, as picture captions, and the pictures themselves can usually show you what it should look like. I try to explain everything in exact detail, but there are some things left up to your discretion. If there is anything that I have overlooked or if the wording is unclear, please let me know so I can clarify and update for everyone. And as in any of the other alternate beginning and endings, you MUST refer to the original Dog Sweater Tutorial to know how to fit the sweater and place the sleeves, etc. If you are new to crochet or crocheting dog sweaters, I really do recommend that you start out with that basic sweater. Making a custom-fit item is very time-consuming the first time. Your dog will have to put up with a lot of fittings. There will be frogging and re-stitching. There is a LOT of measuring. Once you have successfully made that first sweater, as long as you use the same yarn weight and hook, you will be able to tackle all future sweaters from my tutorials a lot easier!  

I really do hope you enjoy making this sweater. I know your dog is going to look dapper in his own Polo Sweater! I LOVE LOVE LOVE the pictures you share on our FaceBook page and on Ravelry. I LOVE when people take my patterns and give it their own flavor and flare. You are my kindred spirits- you people that can't exactly follow the rules and know you can improve something with your own imagination. Constructive rule-breaking! YEAH! I love being able to offer these patterns so all the cold pups out there get some warmth and the crocheting owners out there can spoil their critters a little more. And I like that I can give them to you for free on my ad-free free blog, so there is as little bull as possible (except for the bull I get to spout out now and then) and it's just not right to try to make money off you reading a page that I didn't have to pay to write. Right? As you can imagine, it takes me a great deal of time to create each sweater, work out the kinks, alter to make it accessible to other crocheters, write it out, edit, take and edit photos, get my models to cooperate, test the pattern, edit some more, add things I left out, edit, edit, edit, and THEN I have to struggle with Blogger to get it to cooperate with me (there is a price for free, after all) and then test on multiple browsers and edit some more. So, please don't reproduce this pattern in whole or in part. I can't stop Pinterest from taking my pictures, but please do ask me if you wish to use one to link to this pattern from your own blog. If you just want to link without a picture, you don't have to ask. Thanks so much for manners! :D





THE PATTERN!

Collar:
The collar consists of 4 parts and an edging round. The first 2 parts are made at the beginning and the next 2 parts and the edging are made after the chest of the sweater are started.
Part A:

With collar color:

Crochet a chain measuring 1 inch shorter than neck circumference. 

Sc in every chain across.

Ch1, turn, sc across.

Repeat last row 2* more times for a total of 4 rows. Do not FO.

Collar Part A - click pictures to see larger
*For a larger dog, you may want a wider collar. If you add rows here, add the same # of rows to collar part B

Collar Part B:
ch 1, turn, sc across BLO
ch1, turn, sc across

Repeat last 3* more times
*see note above


4 rows on part A(bottom) and 5 on part B(top)

Shaping row (pointy tip)
Chain 3, turn

dc in same stitch

hdc in next stitch

sc across to last 2 stitches

hdc in next to last stitch

2dc in last stitch. FO


Pointy ends added


Placing markers:
Fold in half, mark center

Fold each end toward center, leaving 1inch gap centered between edges.

Mark on the folds.


Stitch Markers Added
Remove center marker UNLESS you plan to leave a keyhole here for attaching a leash to your dog's collar. 

 * * * * * * * * * *

Placing a keyhole for a collar or harness
For a collar, you will want to place the keyhole in the initial increase row. You will still want to get all of your increases in, so just adjust those as needed.  
For a harness, you will need to either measure the dog in the harness to know how far down the sweater to place the keyhole OR try the sweater on the dog and judge how many more rows to go.
There will be a picture here soon showing how to measure the harness connection! Waiting on a friend to send it! 
The method is the same no matter where you place it. You will simply be changing the 5 stitches in the center of a couple of rows. This will give you a nice opening to lift the D-ring through to connect the leash. 


Mark the center of the back. You will be changing the center 5 stitches as follows:
On Row 1: sc, 3sl st, sc  with that middle sl st placed at your marker

On Row 2: ch 5, skip the 'dip' and continue the hdc

On Row 3: hdc in each of the chains
If you like, you can go back later and do a sc or sl st border inside this keyhole. It will make it a little smaller, of course, but will help prevent it stretching out of shape. Alternatively, you can either crochet a patch to sew on top or beneath. A little patch of felt could do the trick, too. Since my dogs don't wear harnesses, I am not super-sure how much stress that spot is going to have to endure. Just throwing some ideas out there!

Obviously, if you are doing a special stitch around the middle (as mentioned later in the tute, when you get to the actual middle) these instructions will have to be adjusted to fit into your stitch pattern. BUT I could also assume that if you didn't figure out a spot for the harness connection on your own, you are probably not getting too fancy with the stitching. LOL

* * * * * * * * * * * 



Sweater chest
Join MC to RS (when collar, folded, is on outside of work), crocheting into the bottom side of the
chain

Ch2 (counts as hdc), hdc across, increasing every 6th stitch, placing leash hole here if desired.


1st MC row with increases

NOTE: Do not increase at beginning or end. This needs to be straight for the next collar step.


ch2, turn, hdc across, placing increases at the side markers

Repeat above, adding as many increase rows as needed, until this section is 3x the length of collar A
piece width. FO.

You can make this section longer if your dog has a longer forechest. You shouldn't make it any longer than 1inch less than total forechest length.
If you are unsure about increases, refer to Basic Dog Sweater Tutorial for tips on how to measure and judge. Some dogs are going to need MORE increases than will be able to fit into the total length. In this case, you will have to throw some extra increases in. I try to do this by placing 2 increases a few stitches apart centered on the marker.

Collar Part A= 1inch, Beginning of Sweater= 3inches 
Note: You will FO here even if you will be rejoining the same color later because it will be easier to work on collar C and D and the collar trim without the yarn in the way.
* * * * * * * *  *
Determining # of sc for beginning of Collar Part C:

This is a gauge check to eliminate the trial and error of getting the edge flat.
1. Measure length of collar A+top section of the body


2. Compare this to another spot to see how many stitches you have in that space

Example: Collar Part A+ top section of chest = 4inches. I have 12 stitches in 4 inches, so I will place 12 sc along the edge to begin Collar Part C. This is my X # of stitches mentioned next.
* * * * * * * * * *
Collar Part C aka Button Placket:

NOTE: I decided to demonstrate this 2 different ways. The first way, in the multicolored example, is the simple version. The second one, in the green, has a few more steps, but a neater finished result. If you choose version2, replace rows 1 and 2 of Collar Part C and D. Version 2 will tell you what and where to change colors, etc.

Version 1 (simple version):

Join on the RS. ch1, place x # of sc across. (as determined by section above)


Start at the bottom and sc x# of stitches, stopping at top of Collar Part A
ch1, turn. sc across.
repeat 4 more times for a total of 6 rows. FO.

Part C/Button Placket complete


Collar Part D/Buttonhole Placket:
Version 1 (simple version):

Join on the WS
Make first 3 rows same as Part C.

Row 1 began on WS

Buttonhole row: Make buttonholes with a ch1, sk1. Be sure they are evenly spaces, and the top button is close to the top edge.
Note: Though this sweater will likely be worn with the top couple (or more) buttons unbuttoned, the option to close the collar will work better (and look more like a real Polo shirt) if it doesn't gap at the top. If you plan to use larger buttons, obviously you will need to make the buttonholes bigger. Make them smaller than you think they should be. It may be hard to button them the first couple of times, but it will soon stretch out.

Buttonholes indicated by the pins


Example: Collar Part A+ top section of body = 4inches. I spaced out 3 buttonholes in this space. Top down, there is: (RS) sc, ch1/sk1, (3sc, ch1/sk1)twice, sc in the last 2 stitches for a total of 12 stitches.
Next row:  ch1, turn, sc in each sc and ch space.
ch1, turn, sc across twice more for a total of 7 rows. Do not FO.

* * * * * * * * 


Collar Parts C and D alternative (slightly neater) version 2:

Remember to join on the RS for part C and the WS for part D!

Replace Row 1 with:

Join MC on the RS. ch1, place x # of sc across, changing to CC when appropriate. FO MC.

In other words, you will be stitching into the MC with MC. On the last stitch into the MC before you get to the CC part, pull through CC to complete that sc. Continue to sc with CC to the edge. You can finish off the MC because you won't need it anymore for this part.  
Here's a link about changing colors in the middle of a row if that's new to you!!! 


Version 2, Row 1

Replace Row 2 with:

Part C: (WS) ch1, turn. sc FLO  across. Continue remaining rows as in version 1.
Part D: (RS) ch1, turn. sc BLO across. Continue remaining rows as in version 1.

Version 2, row 2 (RS)
 * * * * * * * * * * * 


Beginning edging:
ch1, rotate to sc across the bottom end of the buttonhole placket.



ch1, turn. (WS) sc BLO across to the edge...
Rotate. place 2 sc in side of end stitch.*
sc in each stitch along long edge of placket, placing 3sc in last stitch to form the corner.

*You could just do a regular 3sc to turn the corner here if this way seems awkward to you. I liked the look of placing 2 into the SIDE of the stitch better because it eliminates that little hole from too many stitches in the same place. You also have a little bit of wiggle room here to stitch into the side of the stitch because of that ch1 from earlier. Either way, you're turning the corner.


sc across top of placket, placing a slst into the place the placket and collar meet
Continue on to edge collar as follows:
Edge the collar with (sc, drop stitch) across.

Note: The drop stitch will stabilize the edge to help prevent curling. Stitched in CC, it really won't show. Not like here on this crazy example sweater made of colors and horrible scratchy yarns that would never get used otherwise :P
Later on you may want to further stabilize the corners of the collar with some matching felt stitched underneath. I found that, with wear and horsing around, the collar wanted to stick out and up and anywhere but neatly into place. It's like you KNEW it was going to happen, but didn't anticipate the instant disappointment because my dog is nutty. (You think you'd get used to that, but you continue to underestimate the nuttiness. There are a lot of 'well duh' moments with dogs, aren't there?) Anyway, I added that at the end of the tutorial before the final finishing details (which includes taking a picture and posting it to fb. That IS a requirement. I will be sending out the Kitty Police to monitor that. If you don't know what the kitty police is, you probably don't have Rat Terriers). I still recommend edging with the (sc, dropstitch) unless you plan to back the entire collar and not just the corners as I illustrated. If you ARE going to line the whole collar, just sc around will probably do the trick! I personally didn't want to sew that much. I don't like to sew.



For the corners: place your drop stitches THROUGH a stitch and not between them to prevent causing gaps. Take your time to space them out evenly on these spots where the place for them isn't obvious.

In the very corner, place (2sc, ch1, 2sc) in the same stitch.

Continue the sc, drop stitch across.




Handle the pointy corners, join of Collar Parts A and B, and the turning corner on the buttonhole placket the same as the first side.




FO leaving a long tail for sewing.

Joining the two halves

Match the plackets at the bottom and with that long tail, sew through both layers, being sure to
reinforce the side edge well with a few whip stitches. Leave the remaining tail for later.

Matched and pinned into place.
Continuing the chest:

Join MC and ch2 underneath the placket flap. (Fold that back out of the way if you need to! It won't be in the way anymore after this first part!)

(Version 1) Flap sewn into place


Continue remaining rounds, placing increases at your where needed, until piece reaches your F
legnth.

Use that long tail you didn't cut off to tack the placket flap down. Be sure not to sew into the stitches you need to crochet into later. You can wait and do this later when you sew in the ends if you prefer. There were SOOOO many ends in the top part of the sweater, I chose to stop and sew them all in before continuing. This is because I hate sewing ends- I would like to think more than most people because a little self-pity is allowed when it comes to sewing ends- so I went ahead and tacked the flap down in the process.


Version 2 on collar parts C and D- a neater finish than Version 1

This is what the inside of the sweater is going to look like. A mess. Hateful ends grumble grumble.


Center of the Sweater:

The sleeve placement and center of the sweater is made exactly as on Basic Dog Sweater Tutorial. You can play with color and/or stitches around the center to reflect popular stripe patterns on Polo Shirts. Here is what I did on the two Polo Sweaters I made:

Pilot's Sweater: 
I did 1 full row of the MC after sleeve holes. Then...
1 sc row in white
1 hdc in aqua
a few rows of black and aqua houndstooth, ending in aqua
1 sc row in white


Rooster's Sweater:
1 sc row in dark green
6 hdc rows in cream
1 sc row in dark green

There are endless combinations and possibilities! You can Google pictures of Polo Shirts for ideas or pull them out of your bag of tricks! I hope you will SHARE WITH US what you came up with!





Sleeves:

Armhole and Sleeves are made exactly as on Basic Dog Sweater Tutorial.
I used short, simple sleeves because polo shirts have short, simple sleeves. The one pictured above are 6 rounds of hdc ending in 1 round of sc.


Polo Shirt Tail:

When I first planned this sweater, I intended to do a long notched tail as a girl-dog option and a boy version with the back panel significantly longer than the belly panel. When I tried the sweater on Pilot at that point, I decided that it was TOO much black at the end. The center stripe would look better if the black halves were more balanced. I ended up taking most of it out to make the sweater 3/4 length. Besides, his butt is cute. Dog butts are cute. Fact. You might prefer a longer sweater. -There is no wrong way to do it- what looks good to you works! But here is how to measure for the notched tail:


End in the center with a sc, sl st at 2/3 the back length (the same place you would begin the decrease rows in the original Dog Sweater Tutorial). FO.

Fold the sweater flat, the very center of the belly facing up. Measure 1 to 2 inches in from the sides and mark. You can determine how far in by how big around the sweater is and eyeballing how wide your dog's belly is or follow this complicated formula: C/3 aka ABOUT the center 1/3 of the sweater circumference. Who cares really. Decide, mark one side, count how many stitches over, count and mark the other side.

Here's what's really important:
DO NOT STITCH IN THE MARKED STITCHES!

For the belly, INSIDE the markers:
Join and ch2, hdc, across.
Ch2, turn, hdc across.
Repeat the last row once more. FO
(total of 3 rows)

For the back,in the remaining unmarked stitches:

Join and ch2, hdc, across.
Ch2, turn, hdc across.
Repeat the last row four more times.
(total of 6 rows)

Do not FO. Continue on to do the edging.
Ch1, sc all around, placing 3 sc to turn the corners. SKIP the marked stitches on either side. Join with sl st when you get back to the beginning. FO.

Back < ...> Front

Collar Stabilizing

After Pilot decided to waller around in his sweater, the points wanted to misbehave- as you can see in the pictures. I considered backing the collar with some fusible web, since it was a white collar, but what if you do another color? Felt! Yes! Hopefully you find felt that matches a little better than what I had on hand for these pictures, but it really doesn't show once the collar is folded over. If you want to line the whole thing, that might work, too, but I was mainly concerned with the parts that weren't staying where I wanted them to stay.


Trace collar onto your felt. Trim it a bit smaller and to fit better and then trace that on more felt to make the second one.


Stitch into place on underneath side of collar. That's all there is to it! It worked well!

Of course if your dog wants to roll around in the wet grass (when he won't go out in the rain, but likes it once it is already on the ground or in puddles) then I am sure there will still be collar wonkiness at times, but definitely better than it was!






Finishing:

Sew in all the ends.

Sew on the buttons.

Put on dog.

Take pictures.

Post on  FaceBook Page!










Shameful Confessions


*#$@ You!
So, to test the pattern, I decided to make a sweater for Rooster the cat. Rooster and Chicken were raised by Rooster's mom, Silha, and they are just a few days apart in age, but Rooster is a BIG cat and Chicken is a little cat. I completely overestimated Rooster's reaction to a sweater. He likes to sleep under the blankets, after all. He acts like a dog most of the time. I really thought he would just lay there with that bored look on his face and let me take pictures. NOT! When I put the sweater on Rooster, he proceeded to run backwards down the hallways like drunken bumper cars. So... I turned on Chicken. All the cats torture Chicken by forcing him to be bathed and snuggled with. I knew he wasn't going to fight me about the sweater. It was mean. I feel bad. I didn't feel that bad about Rooster because Rooster is a pest and I was just the hand of karma in his case, but Chicken is a sweetie and I was picking on him because I knew he wasn't going to say no. I gave him a lot of treats after. I've been apologizing for it ever since. I did manage to get a couple of shots of him in the sweater that is WAY too big for him before he fell sideways out of the window into my lap. Sorry, Chicken Little. I will never do it again. In fact, I will make you a new toy. Right now.

I could have totally faked you out and pretended Chicken liked this by posting only this picture. It could be interpreted as pensive, after all, and not a desperate longing to escape the household which, despite the bottomless bowl and heated beds, forces such indignities on him for the human's own selfish amusements. However, being an honest-type person and knowing that pretty much everyone that comes to this page knows about cats, I did not bother to try to bullshit you into thinking that putting sweaters on these particular (and probably most) cats was not a very bad idea. I really do feel bad, 24 hours later as I write this, because Chicken still hasn't forgiven me for the little kitten that stayed with us one night no longer being in the bathroom. Six weeks later and he is still looking for her. I am sorry, Chicken. For the sweater. And the kitten. I would have liked for her to stay, too, because she was adorable, but the house is full and she was promised to someone else. Besides, we were the only ones who liked her. Everyone else wanted her dead. It just wasn't meant to be.

Or maybe his feelings were hurt because this sweater was too big. We'll go with that. It sounds a lot better than 'bad cat owner'.

2 comments:

  1. This is adorable! I put it in my Ravelry library. Thank you for sharing this pattern!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have to make this for my Mason!

    ReplyDelete

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