|Pilot in 'Dress Blues' and 'Light Gray'|
* * * * * * Important * * * * * *
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
For personal use, gifting, and donation only. If you are involved in an animal charity, please contact me with details of the charity and event for permission to sell for fund-raising. Please do not sell or duplicate this pattern in whole or in part, claim any part of this pattern to be your own or ever use items made from this pattern for personal gain.
There are so many choices of variegated yarns, but it is not really something I have worked with a lot. When I went to pick out yarns for my dogs' new sweaters (This was supposed to be a Christmas present, but alas there was too much other stuff to do!) I was drawn to the large selection of multi-colors. I found a sweet mix of purples that reminded me of Paypoo and how much I love purple and how much I love my sweet little Rattie girl. There was a crazy mix of reds, oranges, and yellows that would look great on Nat and the boldness matches her crazy, over-large, over-loud personality. And Pi-Pi needed something manly because he is getting to be such a big boy, but not too dark because his deep chocolate color must not be competed with. Yes, my reasoning is not necessarily sound, but you must not stifle inspiration at any cost!
The idea to add the solid accents arrived from a. me not being sure 3 skeins was enough for Nat after all... and b. getting started on my New Year's Resolution to clear out some of my extensive stash. The color combos worked out great, and yes you could do this sweater in any color combo you choose (even 2 solids or a lot of colors striped!) but check out Red Heart's chart of what of their multi-color yarns go with which solids. Not all the colors that match are listed on their chart, though, so if you trust your own judgment, go with that. Every time. Really.
|Pagan in 'purple tones' and 'lt. amethyst'|
And here is a link to CPC's page of appliques- but also check out some of their other categories like butterflies or hearts for more ideas. Pilot's sweater I added a star- it seemed to go with the military vibe- and Pagan's sweater will probably have a flower because she is just sweet and little and sweet like that :P For Nat... not sure. She only cares about balls. We shall see!
First... the important links...
MeasuringYour Dog For A Sweater
Dog Sweater Tutorial
Post Stitches Video Written/Picture Instructions
Crochet Pattern Central (for applique ideas)
NOTE: Please let me know if you find any errors or lines that are not clear.
I am always happy to answer any questions and appreciate all input!
To reiterate, this pattern is a variation of my Dog Sweater Tutorial. I will not be completely re-representing that pattern here, but I will edit that post with a note and link of when and where the changes begin. So start out on that page and click to come back to here when you get to that point. But don't go yet! There are a couple of things you should know first...
1. Begin the collar with your solid and a Chain 10. You COULD make it bigger, but a chain 10 is going to compliment the trim width. I also added an inch to the collar to give it more of a cowl effect.
2. FO after you seam the collar and join with the variegated.
Remember: Never crochet in ends on a dog sweater. They are not going to hold. Leave them long enough to sew in well!
3. Follow the dog sweater tutorial through to 'Beginning the leg openings' Rnd 1. Begin Rd. 2, then come back here. There will be a link added to remind you!
Off you go! See you back here in a couple hours! Unless you have a huge dog.. or a lot of dogs that need to be walked but never at the same time- or maybe hungry children or grumpy spouse or a lot of other things that get in the way of doing what you really want to do. In any of these cases it might take longer, but we will be here when you get back. CLICK NOW! and happy crocheting!
...later that same day...
....meanwhile, back at the ranch...
Here are the new stitches you will use this time:
Front Post Double Crochet = fpdc
Ribbing increase = ribinc
Rib stitch 3 together = rib3tog
ribinc = Fpdc around stitch at corner. Hdc through both loops of same stitch. Fpdc around same post again.
rib3tog = YO and insert hook as if to fpdc. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 loops on hook. (2 loops on hook) Insert hook under both loops of next stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 loops on hook. (3 loops on hook) YO and insert hook in next stitch as if to fpdc. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Picking up where we left off on the tutorial...
The Tutorial says:
Round 2- (working in rounds again beginning with the end of this row) HDC around. Continue to hdc around until piece equals (B-F)/2
--->You are going to stop a little short- approximately 1.5 inch short. [(B-F)/2]-1.5 inch.
At 2 stitches before center, sc in the next stitch, slst in the center stitch.
Lay the sweater flat with the leg openings positioned evenly. Using a straight edge and 2 stitch markers, mark the end of the sweater 2 stitches outward from the inside point of the leg openings. (Do not follow the line of stitches, go parallel to the sides of the sweater)
Slst across to first marker and proceed as follows:
Row 1- Ch2 (counts as hdc). Hdc in next stitch and in each stitch around to stitch marker. Ch2, turn.
Row 2- Skip first stitch. Hdc in next stitch each stitch around. Leave top of ch2 unworked. Ch2, turn.
Note: This makes a neater decrease than hdc2together. If you are not comfortable with doing it this way, feel free to follow how it is done in the original tutorial.
Repeat row 2 until (B-1.5inch).
Follow original tutorial (below) for the beginning of the edging.
Round 1- Ch 1. 2 sc in same stitch. sc in each stitch across, 3sc in next corner. Working down the sides, sc evenly spaced 2sc per side of each HDC******* End with sc in same st as beginning to complete corner. Sl st to close. Ch 1. Do NOT Turn.
*******To prevent gapping along the trim, place one sc in the seem between HDC and one in the side of the HDC.
FO MC. Join CC at any point along the sides.
Round 2- Ch1. Sc in each stitch around, placing 3 sc in the outward corners and sc2tog at the inward curves. Join with a slst at beginning sc. Ch2.
Round 3- Hdc in each stitch around, placing 3hdc in the outward corners and hdc2tog at the inward curves.
Round 4- (Fpdc in next stitch, hdc in next stitch) around, placing ribinc on the corners and rib3tog at the inward curves. Slst to beginning ch2 and FO.
NOTE: You may not have an even number of stitches to make the ribbing exact. Don't worry. You can hide the small imperfection (a repeat of a stitch) somewhere on the belly area and it will not be noticeable. You may have to do this more than once to get the corners and curves positioned correctly. As long as you have the corners and the curves centered correctly, the edging will lie flat.
Sleeve (repeat for both sleeves)
Round 1- Join MC to arm hole and ch2 to count as 1st hdc. HDC around (In each hdc, the side of both hdc and bottom of chain)- placing 2 HDC in the sides of the HDC on sleeve hole openings. Join with a sl st at top of ch2. Ch2. Do not turn.
Round 2-3 - HDC around and join with a slst to beginning ch2. FO after round 3.
Round 4- Ch1 and sc in same stitch. Sc around. Join with a slst to beginning sc. Ch2.
Round 5- Hdc around and join with a slst to beginning ch2. Ch2.
Round 6- (fpdc in next stitch, hdc in next) around, hiding any possible repeat of stitch to the inside of the leg if needed. Join with a slst to beginning ch2. FO.
Sew in all ends securely. Block sweater if necessary. You can insert a plastic-cover piece of cardboard while blocking to stretch the width of the sweater if needed. Most sweaters will stretch and relax some with wear.
Add applique to the back of sweater if desired.
Find us on Facebook!